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Real-world range
How we test

Criterion 3 of 6

Real-world range

The number on the box is a best case you will almost never see.

Range is the most exaggerated number in the entire industry. Brands quote a figure earned in the lowest assist level, on flat ground, with a light rider, in perfect weather — conditions you will basically never replicate. We ignore the box and ride a fixed, repeatable mixed-terrain loop in a realistic assist level until the pack is empty, then report the miles a normal person should actually plan around.

How much it counts

Range matters most where a dead battery strands you far from home — commuters, touring bikes, and cargo bikes doing real daily duty.

See it in motion

Real-world range, on the road

A short, soundless clip illustrating how we evaluate real-world range in the real world. Everything it shows is explained in full below.

A large integrated battery pack inside the downtube of an electric bike

Watt-hours: the only honest capacity number

Forget 'miles' on the spec sheet and look at watt-hours (Wh) — volts multiplied by amp-hours — the actual size of the fuel tank. A rough real-world rule is 15–25 Wh per mile depending on assist level, terrain, and rider weight. So a 500 Wh pack realistically covers 25–40 mixed miles; a 700 Wh+ pack (like the Specialized Turbo Vado's 710 Wh) genuinely survives a demanding commute week between charges. When a bike offers a dual-battery option — the Lectric XPedition can carry 1,248 Wh — we test with both, because that flexibility is the whole point.

A cyclist on a long countryside ride on an electric bike

What actually drains the pack

Five things move range more than anything the brochure admits: assist level (turbo can halve your miles versus eco), rider and cargo weight, terrain and wind, temperature (a cold pack in winter can lose 20–30 percent), and tire pressure. We hold our test loop and rider constant so the only variable is the bike, then we tell you how much range collapses when you actually use the power you paid for. The honest takeaway is usually 'buy more battery than you think you need,' because everyone rides in turbo more than they admit.

A handlebar-mounted electric bike display showing battery status at dusk

How we test range — and battery safety

We ride the same mixed loop — flats, climbs, stop-and-go — at a real-world assist level until the bike stops assisting, log the miles, and repeat for consistency. We also note charge time and whether the battery is removable (a huge convenience for apartment dwellers) and, critically, whether the pack and system carry UL 2271 / UL 2849 safety certification. A battery that goes the distance is no good if it isn't safe; bikes like the Velotric Discover 1 that certify at a budget price earn real credit here. For the full picture on battery fires and safe charging, see our safety hub.

What we measure

The specific checks behind this part of every score.

  • 1Real miles on a fixed mixed-terrain loop in a realistic assist level
  • 2Watt-hour capacity versus the brand's claimed range
  • 3How far range drops in high assist, with a heavier load, or in the cold
  • 4Charge time from empty and whether the battery is removable
  • 5Battery and system safety certification (UL 2271 / UL 2849)

Green flags

  • Generous watt-hours for the bike's intended job
  • A removable pack and a dual-battery option for long days
  • Real-world range that lands close to the honest mid-assist figure
  • UL-certified battery and charging system

Red flags

  • A headline range that only holds in eco mode on flat ground
  • A small pack with no range-extender path
  • No safety certification on the battery or system
  • Range that craters the moment you use turbo or carry a load

Bikes that nail it

Bikes whose batteries go the distance — from a 750 Wh tourer to a dual-battery cargo hauler.